Olio Nuovo Tasting notes December 2017

In late fall 2017, I wrote a story for the LA Times connecting Hanukkah to the olive harvest and crush, which occurs the same time of year. The first bottling of the first pressing is akin to capturing sunlight in a bottle. The verdant, creamy oil is a fleeting delight, its intense flavors and polyphenols disappearing quickly until, as olive oil producer Albert Katz says, “it’s just good oil.” As part of the assignment, I got to taste a lot of fabulous oils. Below are my tasting notes. Only at this time of year can you find olio nuovo at specialty markets and online. As they say, use immediately, pour abundantly.

Italy

Tenuta di Capezzana. Region: Carmignano, Tuscany. Olive cultivars: Moraiolo, Frantoio, Pendolino, Leccino. Grassy, “spring in a bottle,” elegantly robust, marries instantly and harmoniously with food. $50-$55 for 500 ml. Monsieur Marcel, Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, Bay Cities Italian Deli, www.markethallfoods.com

Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Laudemio. Region: Tuscany. Olive cultivars: Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino. Brilliant green; floral, wheat and artichoke aromas; “grand Tuscan” robust bitterness and pepper. $50-$55 for 500 ml. Monsieur Marcel, www.markethallfoods.com.

Gianfranco Becchina Olio Verde Novello. Region: Sicily. Olive cultivar: Nocellara del Belice. Intensely green; herbaceous; medium bitterness, spice and pepper; hint of nuts. $45-$50 for 500 ml. www.markethallfoods.com.

Titone. Region: Sicily. Olive cultivars: Nocellara del Belice, Cerasuola, Biancolilla. Rich, nutty, herbaceous, fruity, medium pepper. $35-$40 for 250 ml. Mozza2Go, Monsieur Marcel, www.markethallfoods.com.

California

Bondolio. Region: Yolo County. Olive cultivars: Nocellara, Biancolilla, Cerasuola. Softer Sicilian style, nutty, hints of sweetness, fruit forward, floral, gentle pepper, medium blend. $32-$35 for 500 ml. We Olive stores under the We Olive label, www.bondolio.com and www.markethallfoods.com.

Katz Organic December’s New Oil. Region: Napa County. Olive cultivars: Leccino, Frantoio, Maurino. Tuscan-style, medium-bold, golden green, brash and daring, spice, herbs, pepper, artichoke, hint of nut. $25 for 375 ml. Monsieur Marcel, www.katzfarm.com, www.markethallfoods.com.

Seka Hills Estate Olio Nuovo. Region: Yocha Dehe Wintun Nation, Capay Valley. Olive cultivar: Arbequina. Very approachable, fresh, bright, grassy, delicate pepper. $16-$20 for 250 ml. Monsieur Marcel, www.sekahills.com, www.markethallfoods.com.