Parsnips Weiser FarmsI’ve always been a purist of a certain ilk when it comes to Hanukah Latkes: grated, never pureed; thin not thick; pan-fried not deep-fried; and always potato. Until now.

Lately, I’ve been completely entranced by the velvety parsnips showing up at the farmers’ markets. Creamy in color beneath their rugged exteriors, they are sweet, lemony, and spicy all in one package—compelling enough to make me finally wonder, what if I substituted them into my family’s traditional potato latke recipe?

Parsnips are also a bit starchy, which is a good thing, since latkes work best when the vegetable’s natural starch helps hold the batter together so that you don’t have to add too much flour. And in real life (the other 357 days of the year), parsnips seem to me to be a more natural companion to apples and applesauce than potatoes. So….

Parsnip Latkes

I love when a simple substitution works; no other change necessary and you get a whole new experience. And oh my goodness, parsnip latkes are delicious! They’re more delicate in texture and have a lovely flavor complexity. I won’t give up potato latkes, but I definitely just expanded my pancake universe. Serve either type with baked, smashed apples. Hear this recipe on KCRW’s “Good Food” on December 17, and read it here on the “Good Food” blog.

About our family latke recipe: it’s inspired by the one in the hilarious cookbook, Love and Knishes by Sara Kasdan, that my mother found in a used book shop fifty-some years ago.

This recipe is adapted from the traditional one my family has been using for three generations, inspired by the one in Sara Kasden’s hilarious 1956 cookbook Love and Knishes. Best of all, the recipe is easily doubled or tripled. Because whoever can eat just one latke?

Makes 24 latkes, 6 servings

2 pounds (900 g) medium parsnips, peeled

1 small onion

2 to 4 heaping tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour or potato starch

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon baking powder

Freshly ground white pepper

2 to 4 eggs, lightly beaten

Mild oil with a medium-high smoke point, such as grapeseed, sunflower, or avocado, for pan-frying

Coarse finishing salt, such as Maldon sea salt

1 Lemon

Optional accompaniments: Applesauce, Roasted Smashed Apples and

Pears and/or crème fraiche

Using the large holes of a box grater or a food processor fitted with the grating disk, grate the parsnips. You should have about 5 cups (730 grams). The parsnips may discolor slightly as they stand, but don’t worry. Grate the onion on the large holes of the box grater or fit the processor with the metal S blade and grate. It should look like pulp; mince or discard any large onion pieces.

In a large bowl, stir together parsnips, onion, 2 heaping tablespoons flour, salt, ½ teaspoon baking powder, and a few grinds of pepper. Stir in 2 eggs. If the mixture seems dry, add the remaining flour, baking powder, and eggs.

Line 2 or 3 sheet pans with paper towels. Place the prepared pans, the latke batter, a large spoon, and a spatula near the stove. Heat 1 or 2 large skillets over medium heat. Generously film the skillet(s) with oil (not more than ¼ inch/6 mm deep). When the oil is shimmering and a tiny bit of batter sizzles on contact, start spooning in the latke batter. Using the back of the spoon, flatten each spoonful into a circle 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in diameter. Do not crowd the latkes in the pan. You’ll get 4 or 5 latkes in a 12-inch (30.5-cm) skillet. Cook the latkes, flipping them once, until golden on both sides, 5 to 6 minutes total. Transfer the latkes to a prepared baking sheet.

Cook the remaining batter in the same way. Add oil as needed by tilting the pan on the burner, pouring in the oil, and letting it heat briefly before resettling the pan and adding batter.

Arrange the latkes on a warmed platter, sprinkle with finishing salt and add a squeeze of lemon over all. Serve with applesauce or crème fraiche as desired.