There are two schools of thought about matzo brei: scrambled egg-style, or the firmer frittata-Spanish tortilla-okonomiaki style. I’m definitely in the latter camp.

It’s a simple enough mixture of crumbled matzos and eggs cooked in a skillet that, when done right, has the right balance of crust and tenderness. Unfortunately, there’s enough carelessly made matzo brei to give it a bad rap: greasy, burnt, soggy, or tough and overcooked.

To reach the textural bliss point, I use a ratio of one egg to one matzo and soak the matzo in tap water only long enough to beat the eggs and heat the skillet. Matzo brei isn’t fried; use just enough oil or oil and butter to keep the food from sticking. Start the pan at medium heat (no higher), make sure the fat is hot enough before you add the “batter” (the mixture should sizzle immediately when it hits the pan), and reduce heat as needed to keep the bottom from burning.

My family thinks of matzo brei as the Passover version of French toast that we enjoy with maple syrup and a sprinkle of salt for breakfast or a light supper (which happens to be the last thing I ate before going into labor many years ago with my first child. Imagine explaining matzo and brei to the nurse at Saint John’s Hospital. Yes, I started to give her a recipe from my hospital bed. No, I didn’t finish.).

But there’s a lot to be said for a savory mix of sauteed onions, eggs, and matzos. Drawing inspiration from all the bright young alliums now at  farmers’ markets—green garlic, onions and leeks—I came up with this elegant version. I added sweetly cooked leeks and green garlic to the batter, draped each tender wedge with a silky slice or two of smoked salmon and finished the whole thing off with horseradish-spiked crème fraîche, dill, and lemon zest.  This dish may not reflect the austerity diet of biblical Jews on the run, but hey, aren’t we glad of that.

Green garlic is the mild, immature garlic plant that is harvested before the familiar bulb forms. Notice its flat leek-like leaves in the photo above that distinguish it from spring onions, which look more like large scallions. In this recipe, you can use a mix of green garlic, leeks, or spring onions (or just one of these), or a regular brown onion and a clove or two of mature garlic. Kind of okonomiyaki style–which roughly translated means, “as you like it.”

Green Garlic & Leek Matzo Brei with Smoked Salmon & Horseradish Cream

½ cup crème fraîche
1 to 3 tablespoons prepared white horseradish (brands vary in strength, as do taste preferences)
½ bunch each young leeks and green garlic (or 1 chopped onion and 1 or 2 cloves minced garlic)
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 matzos
4 eggs
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground white pepper
¼ pound sliced smoked salmon
1 lemon
A few sprigs of dill, snipped

Stir crème fraîche and horseradish together and refrigerate.

Cut root ends off leeks and green garlic. Trim away tough green leek tops and discard or save for making stock. Cut garlic and leek plants in half lengthwise and rinse well to remove any dirt. Chop leeks and garlic crosswise into ¼- to ½-inch pieces. You should have about 2 cups.

Heat 1 tablespoon each butter and olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook uncovered until colors brighten, about 3 minutes, cover skillet and cook until very tender, stirring occasionally and reducing heat as needed to keep from browning, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove mixture from pan and set aside. Reserve pan.

Break matzos into small pieces into a medium bowl and pour water over to cover. Whisk the eggs with about a half-teaspoon of salt and a few grinds of pepper until well blended. Drain the matzos (don’t get too crazy, just tilt the bowl and pour off excess water). Stir the matzo and leek mixtures into the eggs.

Reheat the skillet with the remaining butter and oil over medium heat. The pan is ready when a bit of matzo mixture sizzles as soon as it hits the pan. Pour in the matzo brei batter, gently smoothing the top and edges. Cook until the underside is set and golden, reducing heat to medium low as needed, about 5 minutes.

Use the edge of a pancake turner or spatula to cut the matzo brei into 6 wedges. Flip each wedge, rotating the pan as you go so that the pieces fit back in nicely, and cook until matzo brei is cooked through but not dry, about 3 minutes more.

To serve, place a wedge on each of 6 serving plates, drape each with salmon and top with a spoonful or two of horseradish cream and a scattering of dill sprigs.  Zest the lemon over each serving. You can add a squeeze of lemon juice over each, if desired.

Makes 6 servings.